Delta Rio De La Plata y Tigre

http://www.welcomeargentina.com/tigre/delta-rio-de-la-plata.html

http://www.viatigre.com.ar/tigre/como-llegar/

I took this short trip actually several weeks ago and Buenos Aires and my various interests kept me from keeping my blog up to date...  in the spur of  a moment this minitrip to San Isidro and Tigre was booked when I had decided time to expand my radius around the city - at that point the excitement of the new had started to fade and given way to a little tiredness of having to learn and find everything by myself from scratch every day.  So booking a tour with the lovely Ibeth from Los Amigos seemed a good way to lean back from all that discovery and pioneering on my own.  And while I was at it I got so inspired in the travel agency chatting with the chicas about their country that I also booked trip I am on now.   Iguazu and Calafate.  But back to Tigre for this entry.  Our bus driver is a woman - una chica verdadera - and I love the radio station she had tuned into so I copy the frequency - 72.08 to find it at home (and I did and it has become my favorite!) then I spot the obligatory Mate on the floor of the van.   Argentinian people will carry their thermos and mate around wherever they go and the containers they have for that are most elaborate.

The rituals and behaviors displayed by Mate drinkers are to me those of smokers,  clearly.   It is a sworn in community - a tribe.  Mate often is shared,  groups of people huddle together,  there are Mate gathering places dedicated to enjoy that brew,  you are either a person who drinks Mate or who does not - "occasional" Mate drinkers are as few and far between as are occasional smokers.   As for the accessories and blends - it starts with the Mate "cup".   Belly or somewhat tulip shaped are the most common ones naturally as that is the shape of the "pumpkin" or "squash" - calabash - they are typically made of.  They are always covered in leather with a metal rim and some prefer a glass container inside.   Depending on who you speak with - their Mate cup/shape/style of course is the best.   Then the straw - bombilla - it can come with a spiral or a strainer type ending - and it is clearly not be used as spoon.  NEVER stir - the bombilla is needed to get the liquid out of the brew and you will out yourself as the worst Gringo if you stir.   The Mate cup is filled with the Yerba.

The yerba plant, Ilex paraguariensis, is a shrub or small tree growing up to 15 meters tall. The leaves are evergreen, 7–11 cm long and 3–5.5 cm wide, with a serrated margin. The flowers are small, greenish-white, with four petals. The fruit is a red drupe 4–6 mm in diameter. The leaves are often called Spanish: yerba or Portuguese: erva, both of which mean "herb." They contain caffeine and related compounds and are harvested commercially. 

typical Argentine accessories 

The cut is very crude in Argentina,  very smooth and and almost powdery in Brasil and Uruguay.   Again a variety of mixtures to chose from and depending on your personal taste you will go for one type or the other.  The Yerba reaches up to the rim of the Mate cup - hot water is poured over it - you wonder how the water will fit .... well,  it does.   That is basically it - listo.  Share.  Enjoy.  For really hot days or whenever you feel like it - there is also the cold version with fruit juice/water mixture - it is called Tereré.  Most Mate Lovers will haul their accessories around like the gentlemen in the picture.   It feels very inconvenient to me and they do not seem to mind.  In his case he owns an elaborate leather bag that will fit the thermos with the hot water,  the Yerba container and the Mate cup perfectly.   Ex-Pats from Argentina in the world are known to spread the word once somebody finds a store that sells Yerba.   The news is twittered,  texted and posted so the Mate lover can quench his thirst also abroad.   Mate got me carried away - yes,  if you have not guessed by now - I am one of them.  

Back to what I wanted to blog on today.  My trip to Tigre - Tigre, some 30 minutes North of Buenos Aires named after indigenous puma if it makes sense.   This town sits at the banks of he second largest river delta in the world.  This phenomenon we find just outside of Buenos Aires.  Immediately I am reminded of the Mississippi Delta and this is a different dimension.   I cannot keep track of all the rivers that form the Delta as our sweet guide makes such a point of stressing which of them are polluted and which ones are not - I frown - look at him in disbelief - it is all one Delta and water system, no?  But I opt to listen,  be kind and not so German.

The bus ride takes us first into greater Buenos Aires - a concept worth writing about another day - through Los Olivos - this is where the presidential residence is - Christina calls this huge mansion her home it expands along serval blocks - helicopters with take off and landing areas included.   What the Porteños think about the cost of their President going to work by helicopter when it is a 30 min car ride I want to know from our Argentine tour guide.   I get the look.   Clearly "kirchnerista"  meaning supporter of the current government of Christina de Kirchner - like a lot of things in this country you are either vehemently for or vehemently against it.  "Well, the safety of our president needs to come first" is the answer I get.   And are you saying your president does not fly to work?   Mmmhhh,   not sure actually ours just changed for reasons I used to attribute more to Latin America than to good old Germany.   I refrain from speaking about some Green Party members who have been known to go to work on roller blades as with streets and pavements in the condition of Buenos Aires this concept would be difficult to follow.

http://www.artesanos-sanisidro.com.ar/home.html

We reach San Isidro.    The arts and crafts market pulls me in and doors open - I am having a conversation with Suzanne a marvelous local artist whose pieces invite me to stay  I spent at least half an hour deep diving with her about why certain colors are associated with directions and elements and how important a role animals have played in all indigenous  people.   In her art she plays joyfully with color, direction and animals and I admire her courage to create pieces that will combine 3 elements not 4.  I realize I have a strong sense or more desire of completeness of systems,   full circle and I have been irritated by gaps or spaces - a piece that combines water,  earth and fire speaks to me and luckily I find one that holds air.  Complete.  The colors she uses are all natural and extracted from plants.   The vibrance is strong and it is obvious that these pieces were designed with loving attention and dedication.   They could be presents I think as for the xth time I feel that sting when I become aware I do not have my own walls to hang all the art acquired over the years.  Then I relax - 2012 is the year to decide on where my base should be, just get on with it and immediately the perfect drawing for my friend Jordi in Barcelona shows up - it is called "Power"  and wants to be in his new home to remind him of his big shift in his empowerment as a leader.


I continue through the Arts Fair and stop by the obligatory and famous church left behind by the Spaniards only to find this bizarre perspective.
As I walk in they are just finishing the Sunday service with the Argentine version of the Lord's Prayer.   Wherever I travel I attend a Service,  one of my travel rituals I have started many years ago.
We arrive in Tigre.   It is packed.  No wonder the weather is fabulous and this is one of the most popular recreational areas just outside of BsAs.   The boat we were supposed to take is broken so they are looking for another one for us.   Argentina.   Things do break down more frequently than I have been used to - solutions are provided much faster and in a much more creative way than I have been used to.    Shade, shade,  please give me shade.   While waiting we learn about the different water sports people indulge in when living in the Delta.   Tigre is famous for its rowing club.

We finally board the substitute boat and enter a different world.   I can clearly see why many artists live here.   The peacefulness and quiet of the place is very attractive and as I watch one little river house after the other go by from my boat perspective I dream myself onto one of the many islands and into a summer spent in the Delta surrounded by lovely and interesting neighbors my days of writing and winding down intercepted by asada invitations and the occasional visitor.  How do you organise yourself I wonder - well,  the answer passes us to the left on the river - life is on boats.   Iceream boat,  Pizza boat,  Supermarket boat.   They have a school on an island but obviously a school boat to bring the kids.   Of course they need gas stations to refuel all the boats in the Delta,  there is a Church,  a movie theatre and other gathering spots you expect in any community.   Going to see someone for coffee or your neighbor to borrow a cup of sugar involves waterways here....

supermarket - supply boat in the Delta

 It is a small community only a couple of thousand people live here on a permanent basis.   For the rest these are their summer houses or weekend residences.   There is no such thing as building restrictions other than those of nature so you can see the all styles and sizes.   

gas station in the Delta 

Almost all of them have nicely kept grounds and gardens around them and that separate little gazebo right at the water where you keep your boat and were you sit to drink Mate, of course.  The color of the water comes from the river bed sediments.   It takes some getting used to other than that this is all VERY inviting.  Some homes are for rent.   I am dreaming - how long would the daily commute to Buenos Aires really be...

riverbank gazebo and boat slip - each house has one...